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Pool Cleaning Business Guide

By James R.

sampleAbout The Author:

This is your first step towards a successful business. Owning a Swimming Pool Cleaning Business is a great if you enjoy working outdoors. The money is good and the freedom is great. The main focus you need is to keep it simple. As a one man business you fall into a little niche that can be very profitable.

Owning a small business is becoming more lucrative every day. Remember when growing up if you didn't go to college you would learn a trade. How many kids growing up do you know that want to go out and learn a trade.

Because the Swimming Pool Cleaning Business is a cash business you need vary little office support. Because you are a one man show you do not need an estimator, receptionist, bookkeeper to run your business. This is why you can do the same job that a large business does for less money. You will be able to go the extra mile for a client that a franchise won't.

Who would you rather call a one man small business owner for less money who you have known for years and are on a first name basis or a franchise who sends a new worker out each time you call. Trust me you will be extremely satisfied with quitting that 9 to 5 job and being your own boss where your time is your own. I am not saying you won't have to work hard because you will but it is not the same as working hard for someone else.

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Qualifications: 
Getting Started in Your Swimming Pool Cleaning Business:

Starting, owning, and operating your own business can be a complicated process. The process is filled with decisions from everything from choosing what types and shares of stock to issue for a corporation to choosing a name for the business. All of these decisions must be made in the backdrop of a multitude of legal and practical considerations.

One of the first decisions an entrepreneur must make is to determine the legal structure i.e. sole proprietorship, partnership, corporation, etc. that is right for the objectives of the business and all of those involved.

The next step in starting your business is choosing the right name. This can be a lot more difficult than it sounds.

Now that you have begun the process of starting your pool cleaning business I would highly suggest you look into your necessary insurance requirements. One of the best places to start looking is fill out a short online form at NetQuote and you will get 5 or 6 quotes to give you an idea of what to expect when you are ready to purchase the insurance.

Most people starting out in business for the first time have little to no idea what is needed for their bookkeeping. This is an extremely important part of doing business, however it is not as difficult as it looks. I have put together a simple system of tracking your expenses and income click here to view.

Look professional, printed shirts or printed hat. Put together a uniform of sorts. Same color shirt with logo on it. Wear the same color jeans. Now you are ready to start letting people know you are in business. Start with friends, relatives, business people you already know. After you exhaust all of your own contacts and their contacts it will be time to start your plan for advertising.

Naming Your Swimming Pool Cleaning Business:

This is one of the most important decisions you will make when first starting your new business. Keep in mind to make sure the name you choose is also an available domain name you can check it at HODI Hosting. Expand your thinking and consider where your business will be 5 years from now. It is important to choose a name that you will not outgrow.

Your name is going to be the focal point of all of your advertising, especially your business cards. When someone looks at your ad you want them to be able to remember it while they are home on their computer even if they left the ad at work. If people ask you how to spell your business name you have chosen the wrong name.

A great name is one that can be mentioned in passing or over the phone and be remembered. Before you settle on a name try it out on friends and family. Type up a little paragraph about a Pool Cleaning or just a story with your business name in the article and give it to some people to read or read it to them over the phone. Then after you are done, ask them if they can remember the business name. If 3 out of 5 remember the name, you have probably picked a winner.

Consider how the business name could be shortened by the public. Just as a child's initials can spell out an embarrassing word, so could the abbreviation for a business.

Do not go out and print anything with your new name on it just yet. First, you will need to decide on your business type. Do you want to incorporate, llc, partnership, sole proprietorship etc... You have to make sure your name is not already taken.

Choosing a name will not be easy, but it will make a valuable difference in your business. In the long run, the effort you put forth now will pay-off ten-fold. Your business name will be representing you so make sure you are proud of it.

You may or may not choose to have a logo. This is something to consider because it helps with name recognition. Once you have designed a logo you need to get a copyright for it. You can go to the link provided below for help. You can also have it designed professionally on the internet with Logo Works.

Licensing Your Swimming Pool Company:

Now that you have chosen your name, lets make sure it is available for licensing in your state. One of the first things you need to do is go down to your local municipality and find out their requirements. Businesses that use a name other than the owner's must register the fictitious name with the county as required by the Trade Name Registration Act. This does not apply to corporations doing business under their corporate name or to those practicing any profession under a partnership name.

If you are going to form some type of corporation you will also want to search the database to make sure it is not taken. You can go to American Incorporators to get the ball rolling on starting a corporation and find out if your name is available.

You also will need to apply for your federal employer identification number. You can apply online here http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/fss4.pdf . Until you receive the (fein) number, the federal government will let you use your social security number.

Every state issues a sales tax number to anyone who will be reselling goods and merchandise at the retail level. Some states will also have you charge sales tax on services rendered. This is something you will have to look into with your state's department of revenue.

A great place to go for state and local information is your local SBA (small business association) . They are always willing to help and they offer a lot of valuable information and discounts on different aspects of owning a small business.

Insurance For Your Swimming Pool Cleaning Business:

Depending on the structure of your pool cleaning business and the type of services you will be providing, insurance needs will vary greatly. Some people starting out are already wealthy people and therefore will have more to lose and require more insurance. The largest amount you could possibly be sued for is the amount of insurance coverage to obtain, not what your business is worth. These are only suggestions and I wouldn't presume to dictate what you need. It is best to discuss your individual needs with a professional insurance agent.

I carry a lot of insurance and I'm bonded. I carry Liability insurance - $1 million coverage per incident and Fidelity Bonding - $100,000 per occurrence. I also have $100,000/$300,000 Auto insurance policy. I filled out an application form with NetQuote to help me compare rates. For my $15,000 bond and a 1 million dollar liability policy will run you aprox. $800.00 per year.

The bond is an employee dishonesty bond - meaning if an employee or you steal money or belongings from the client, the bond will reimburse up to the amount you are covered for. If you have employees you will need to carry Worker's Compensation to protect your business against liability and, at the same time, ensure that your valued employees have the protection they need if they suffer a serious injury on the job.

As far as automobile insurance is concerned, the more vehicles you have on the road, the more lives you are responsible for. That translates into a greater risk for your business and your assets.

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Advertising Your Pool Cleaning Business:

Door to door campaigns are the most effective ways of attaining new customer. Choose your starting point and radiate out from it. Dress casual, you don’t want to look like a slob, but you don’t want to intimidate and make people feel uneasy, buy dressing over the top. Below is a great store for trade related gifts. I have never seen them any place else. I started by wearing one of their T's it got me a lot of attention when I was soliciting business. Also have a nice door hanger that goes over the topics below.

 

What distinguishes you from your competition Are you offering better value or service Is there something new you are going to offer you definitely want to use color Always use the best quality paper and color you can afford Mailing address Phone number Fax number Web address Email

Make sure any information you put on your door hanger is not going to change within a year's time. If you have employees, do not use their names or photos. There is nothing worse than having an ad out and the person does not work for you anymore.

Keep in mind you may want to mail them at some time and the bigger the brochure the more it costs to mail.

Make sure you have a nice quality business card. Your card should be legible, memorable and attractive. Make sure your font is no less then 10pt, anything smaller is too hard to read. I would use the best quality colors, paper and raised letter printing. This card represents you and your business so it needs to be first rate. Now pass them out to every possible client.

What do you do when you feel like the client doubts your abilities? Come right out and say "You seem a bit unsure of my abilities to do the job, and I'd like to address that. What are your concerns?" Try to keep the client answering and asking questions. The longer you can keep his attention the more comfortable they will feel. Only use your natural words that you use every day, do not try to be someone you are not, because it will be obvious and you will lose them.

Basic Pool Cleaning Equipment Needed:

Most pool problems can be avoided by using the following guidelines when maintaining the chemical balance. Having a good test kit is of key importance.

Algae:

Many pool owners have problems from time to time with algae. What is it and what can be done to get rid of it? What can we do to avoid the problem recurring?

The following may help answer these questions and help dispel some of the misunderstandings about the how and why of the appearance of algae in swimming pools.

ALGAE. WHAT IS IT?

Algae is a small plant growth which can take on many forms and is closely related to seaweed which itself is a form of algae. As in the case of seaweed, it can come in many shapes and sizes but for the most part Algae found in swimming pools is very small and resembles moss. These tiny microscopic plants feed on nutrients contained in the water. The algae spores, or seeds if you like, are either already present in the water, transported to the pool by wind or are attached to other debris which finds its way into the pool.

The algae plant requires only air, sunlight, water and a good supply of nutrients to grow. They normally grow most profusely in the shallowest water and are usually found in areas around swim outs and steps.

HOW DO WE GET RID OF IT?

By removing any one of the elements mentioned above ie. air, sunlight, water or nutrients, the algae will not grow. The simplest way of ridding your pool of algae is to remove the nutrients required for algae growth. Shock dosing of the pool will usually overcome the problem by starving the algae of its nutrients, causing it to die.

However they are extremely hardy little organisms and, in some cases the algae becomes so resistant to the normal sanitizer that treatment with an Algaecide is required. There are many of these available and Serviceman can advise on which is the best one for you to use.

Once the algae dies, the residue will need to be brushed from the pool surface so it can be removed by the filtration process or vacuumed out, leaving the pool clean and clear.

KEEPING THE POOL ALGAE FREE

Maintaining correct water balance and sanitizer level and not allowing the pool to “go off”, along with occasional shock dosing, will usually keep algae under control. Add to this the regular use of an Algaecide and you can be sure the pool remains clean and free from algae

Swimming Pool Filtration:

A swimming pool must be filtered to remove insoluble particles and to produce clear water. Clear water is desirable not only for aesthetic reasons, but for hygiene and safety.

The quality of filtration depends on the size of the filter media. The finer the media, the higher the purity of water obtained.

Pool water filtration is a balance between water quality and water quantity. Either quality or quantity must be sacrificed to enhance the other. The finer the filter media, the faster the increase in pressure across the filter bed, and the more frequent the need for backwashing or filter replacement.

There are three types of filters in common use in the marketplace today, these are High Rate Sand, Diatomaceous Earth and Cartridge.

HIGH RATE SAND FILTER

The high rate sand filter is the most commonly used filter on both domestic and commercial pools.

The high rate sand filter has one grade of sand - either 16:30 or the finer grading of 18:30 and the sand bed is 200-310mm (8-12 inches) deep, depending on the size of the tank.

Water is forced through the sand bed at such a high rate that a form of mechanical flocculation takes place. The electrical charges are literally scrubbed off allowing the dirt particles to agglomerate and form larger particles. On the next pass through the filter these larger particles are collected.

One of the benefits of the sand filter is its simplicity. When the bed of sand is clogged with dirt, the pressure inside will register on a gauge which indicates the need to flush it out or backwash.

This means switching off the pump and turning the valve to ‘backwash’. When the pump is switched back on, the flow of water is reversed and washes up through the sand bed and removes the dirt. After backwashing the valve can be returned to the ‘filter’ position for normal operation.

The dirty water from the filter is normally discharged into a sewer gully or it can be used to water lawns or shrubs.

Sand filters will normally remove particles down to about 15 microns in size. The sand in the filter will normally only need changing approximately every 5 years, though this will depend on factors such as pool usage, size etc.

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (DE) FILTER

Diatomaceous Earth is a powder made up from finely crushed coral-like rock.

Inside the DE filter are a series of hollow plastic frames which can be square, round or tubular, depending on manufacturer. Over these frames is stretched a polyester covering or pad.

Water from the pool is forced into the filter tank and through the pad. The water then runs through the centre of the filter and returns to the pool.

To begin filtration, the Diatomaceous Earth is mixed into a slurry and tipped into the skimmer box (with the pump running). It is sucked into the filter, forming a cake on the outside of the pad. As water passes through the pad it must also pass through the cake of D E, where filtering takes place. The DE cake drops from the pad when the pump is stopped, then reforms again when the pump is started.

Since the grains of DE are so fine, this type of filter has superior filtration qualities. It can remove particles down to approximately 5 microns in size. When the pressure rises it is an indication that the DE cake is clogged and the filter needs backwashing.

This is carried out by turning off the pump and turning the valve to the ‘backwash’ position. What must be remembered is that the used DE cake is also flushed away. Therefore it must be replenished following every backwash.

CARTRIDGE FILTER

The cartridge filter in some ways incorporates the benefits of both sand and diatomaceous earth. The filtering medium is a concertina shaped cartridge providing a large filter surface within a relatively small housing. This large filter area means the filter cycle, or period between cleaning, is increased.

Unlike other filters, there is no provision for backwashing. When the cartridge is clogged, it must be removed for cleaning. Filter cartridges are generally hosed off. However, those used in a heated pool or spa may need to be soaked in a cleaning solution.

One of the advantages of the cartridge filter is that the method of cleaning makes it ideal for use in un-sewered areas or where disposal of waste water is a problem.

The filtering ability of this type of filter is somewhere between sand and diatomaceous earth and will remove particles down to approximately 8 – 10 microns in size.

Always refer to the manufacturer for installation and maintenance of filters.

Sanitizing the Pool:

The primary reason for treating pool and spa water with sanitizing chemicals is to prevent the growth of bacteria which would make swimmers and bathers sick.

These bacteria can cause infections in ears, nose and throat and possibly other more dangerous diseases like Meningitis.

Bacterial control is easily accomplished by adding a sanitizer (most commonly Hypochlorous Acid or simply “chlorine” ) regularly, and then passing the water through a filter to remove the dead bacteria.

We then need to be sure that any additional bacteria entering the water is met by a “sanitizer residual” in sufficient concentration to kill this new bacteria as quickly as possible.

The primary source of bacteria is the swimmers and bathers themselves. Also top-up water and debris, such as leaves, grass, dust, etc. Animals can contribute significantly to bacteria levels. A large dog can contaminate up to twenty times the volume of water that a human can.

But don’t worry! It is generally accepted that most harmful bacteria will be killed when exposed to a “free chlorine residual” as low as one milligram per litre or, in other words one part per million (ppm). By regularly testing the water and adding the required amount of chlorine to the pool, a residual level of 1.0 or 2.0 ppm is easily maintained.

TYPES OF CHLORINE

Chlorine is available in a number of different forms. Granular, liquid, or tablet, and can also be Stabilized * or un-stabilized *. Chlorine can also be generated by a salt water chlorinator. Each of these different forms has its own features and benefits. For instance, granular chlorine is convenient, easy to store and relatively cheap, however it cannot be dosed automatically. On the other hand, liquid chlorine is bulky and can’t be stored for long periods, but can be dosed automatically. All are satisfactory sanitizers for your pool, so choose the type that best suits your budget and lifestyle. No matter which form you decide to use, the requirement for a residual of 1.0 to 2.0 ppm remains the same.

Safety Note:

Never mix chemicals - even different types of chlorine - fire and/or explosion may result

SALT CHLORINATORS

As the name suggests, these units generate chlorine in the pool water using a process of electrolysis to convert sodium chloride (salt) into hypochlorous acid. These units are available in different sizes to suit different size pools. Be sure the unit you select is capable of producing sufficient chlorine to meet your maximum requirements. No matter which one you choose, you may still need to add extra chlorine from time to time to make sure a satisfactory residual level is maintained.

 Stabilizing refers to the combining of isocyanuric acid with chlorine, to protect it from UV rays, which drastically reduce its effectiveness. Isocyanuric acid can also be added manually to the pool.

Please note that if you are using stabilized chlorine products or are adding stabilizer to the pool, the level of stabilizer (Isocyanuric acid) in the water should be checked periodically, as in doing its job, it does not get used up like other chemicals in the pool. If the stabilizer level gets too high, it can actually inhibit the effectiveness of the chlorine.

CHLORINE SMELL

Many people complain about the smell of chlorine and believe that the pool may have too much chlorine in it. In fact, the opposite is most likely the case. Not having enough chlorine in the pool will result in the chlorine smell and also lead to users suffering with sore eyes and itchy skin. The reason this is so, is that a by-product of chlorination is the production of chloramines. These chloramines are the smelly little beasts that cause all the hassle. To get rid of them, we need to add more chlorine. It is for this reason that, from time to time, the pool needs “super chlorination”.

HEATED POOLS

A heated pool will require more chlorine than a non-heated pool. This is because chlorine is used up much more quickly in hot water.

Stabilized chlorine products should not be used in heated pools as their effectiveness is greatly reduced.

MAJOR POINTS
Water Balance:

Untreated, or improperly treated water can be a health threat. Chemically balanced and sanitized water, on the other hand, will provide a healthy and visually appealing environment for you, your family and friends.

Balanced water means that chemical demands have been met. If the chemical levels are too low the water will aggressively seek the products it needs by attacking the pool surface and equipment. This may lead to severe corrosion problems. On the other hand, high chemical levels may lead to the formation of scale on the pool surfaces and equipment.

Out of balance water can, therefore, cause expensive damage to the pool and may also inhibit the sanitizing process.

In simple terms, the pool owner should balance the following variables:

PH

 Ph is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Values below 7.0 are acidic, and values above 7.0 are alkaline. With pool water we are seeking a pH balance suitable to the pool user, the pool and sanitizer use.

Topping up your pool, heavy rain, heavy bathing loads and chemical additions can all change the pH level of your pool water. Incorrect pH levels can have the following effects;

THE EFFECT OF pH ON CHLORINE

Effective sanitizing relies on pH values. Therefore, sanitizer and pH levels should be the measures you check and adjust most often. Regardless of the chlorine type or the chlorination process used, any pH drift above the recommended range (7.0 to 7.8) will inhibit the sanitizing effect of your chlorine.

TOTAL ALKALINITY (T.A.)

This is a measure of bi-carbonates, carbonates and hydroxides in your water.

Low T.A. will lead to erosion of the surface of concrete and painted pools. It will also cause the pH levels to be very unstable with small additions of chemicals resulting in major shifts in pH.

This is sometimes known as “pH bounce”. Total Alkalinity can be changed in the following ways;

THE INTERCONNECTION BETWEEN pH AND TOTAL ALKALINITY

It can be seen that acids will lower the pH and Total Alkalinity. There is an interconnection between these two chemical components and, because of this, they need to be adjusted together. The levels you are seeking to maintain are;

Check with your pool builder or pool shop for the level required in your pool.

Let’s assume that the pH is OK but the Total Alkalinity is low. To raise the level, add “buffer” (Sodium Bicarbonate) at the required rate. However Buffer is an alkali and will also raise pH. Acid (Hydrochloric Acid or Sodium Bisulphate), which is used to lower pH, also lowers T.A. The trick is therefore to raise the T.A. artificially high so that when acid is added, to lower the pH to the correct level, the T.A. is also reduced to the correct range.

Note: Hydrochloric Acid must always be diluted (one part acid to ten parts of water) prior to adding to the pool. Always add acid to water, never water to acid.

CALCIUM HARDNESS

In simple terms, this measures the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. The recommended range is 80 to 500ppm.

Both Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness need to be brought into balance. If not, low levels will mean the water is corrosive to the pool and/or equipment; high levels will lead to scale formation on pool and equipment.

Calcium hardness tests cannot usually be performed with the standard test kit. We suggest a water sample be taken to a Accredited Pool Shop for testing. A rough rule of thumb in areas where calcium levels are not naturally high is that testing annually will suffice after the initial adjustment. The only qualification to this is if you are using Calcium Hypochlorite to sanitize your pool. This chemical raises Calcium Hardness levels which may require more frequent testing and adjustment.

Adding chemicals

As a general rule you are far better off adding small amounts of chemicals, running the filter and testing the effect after several hours. Attempting LARGE chemical changes by adding LARGE amounts of chemicals can result in BIG PROBLEMS.

Saving Water:

The average domestic swimming pool holds somewhere between 12,000-40,000 gallons of water.

This amount is usually a once-only fill quantity and from then on the pool needs only to be topped up from time to time. Savings can be made both in costs and water usage by limiting the frequency and water quantity used in topping up.

Keeping the pool properly filtered and chemically balanced are just two of the ways of ensuring against unnecessary emptying of the pool and frequent backwashing. This will help save water.

Looking after the pool is really very simple. It is a combination of adequate filtration time and correct chemical treatment.

Adequate Filtration

During the summer it is recommended that the filter should run for 8 to 10 hours a day and certainly whenever people are using the pool. While ever the filter is operating, the surface of the water will be skimmed off, removing things like leaves and dust before they sink. To remove the dust and dirt collected by the filter, the filter must be “backwashed”. This procedure reverses the water flow through the filter and flushes the dirt down the drain. Only continue backwashing until the water in the sight glass provided, or at the drain point is clean and clear. This should take no more than one or two minutes. Excessive backwashing can waste up to 2,000 gallons of water.

Chemical Balance

 You don’t have to be a scientist to correctly balance your pool. There are three basic rules to follow. Firstly, adjust the Total Alkalinity level. Secondly, adjust the pH and lastly, ensure the required amount of sanitizer is added either by manually dosing or via an automatic chlorinator.

By continually maintaining correct water balance the need for emptying your pool and the subsequent topping up can save thousands of gallons of water annually.

Correct Water

Level Making sure the water level is only half way up the skimmer opening ensures the correct skimming action and also saves water. Do not overfill your pool. It reduces the effectiveness of the skimmer and wastes water.

Covering the Pool

More and more pool owners are discovering the advantages of heating their pools. With water heated to a pleasant 85 degrees, the pool can be enjoyed for another three months at least. To reduce evaporation and the subsequent need to top-up, a pool cover is a wise investment. Covers not only save water but help keep the pool clean and reduce the energy costs by reducing heat loss. The availability of rollers for covers makes it a quick and easy way of lowering costs and saving water.

Leaks

Many pools in the US are now twenty or thirty years old and may be in need of attention. Make a point of thoroughly checking around the pool for any damp spots. Check the plumbing for leaks and valves or pipe connections.

One drip per second can waste up to 4,000 gallons of water per year. A steady dribble could waste hundreds of Thousands of gallons per year – and add to your water bill.

Safety Saves Lives and Water

Safety is one of the most important factors of Swimming Pool & Spa ownership, particularly where small children are concerned. Whenever groups of children are in the pool, “bombing” and “horseplay” can get out of hand so it is a good idea to make sure children are well supervised. By restricting this type of behavior you not only avoid accidents but prevent water loss due to excessive splashing.

Spa & Pool Maintenance:

If you own a spa pool or hot tub, it is important to understand that it requires a certain amount of owner maintenance to ensure it operates properly and that the water remains clean and healthy.

The water treatment requirements for a spa pool differ from those for a swimming pool, because you are dealing with hot water. Hot water requires different treatment to prevent the growth of viruses, bacteria and algae.

The correct use of chemicals will maintain the water in a clean and healthy condition. The parameters that need to be regularly checked are, total alkalinity, pH and sanitizer (Chlorine or Bromine) level.

Special note:

CHANGING THE WATER

The spa water should be changed every three to four months, or remove and replace approx 30% or 1/3 of the volume of water every three to four weeks.

TOTAL ALKALINITY

The total alkalinity should be in the range of 90 - 150 ppm (parts per million). A spa or hot tub with low total alkalinity would require constant adjustment of the pH.

To raise total alkalinity, add sodium bicarbonate in small quantities. To lower the total alkalinity, add acid (Hydrochloric Acid) in small quantities. Test in one hour.

THE pH LEVEL

pH is the measure of the acid/alkaline level of the water. It is important to maintain the correct pH level as it effects the action of other chemicals.

The pH is measured on a scale of 1 to 14. Seven is neutral, below seven is acidic, and above seven is Alkaline

Incorrect pH levels can cause poor chlorine or bromine efficiency, eye and skin irritations, corrosion of metal fittings, cloudy water and formation of scale on the pool walls and fittings. The pH should always be above 7.0 (measured at room temperature, not hot) to avoid possible corrosion of equipment. However, it should not be higher than 7.8, as this would reduce the efficiency of the sanitizer.

If the pH level needs to be increased, add soda ash; to reduce the pH level, add acid. Wait for one hour and test again.

Sanitizing your spa is essential for safe, healthy water, free of harmful micro-organisms. The most common forms of sanitizer are chlorine and bromine. Ozone may also be used, but because there can be no residual, chlorine or bromine must be used in conjunction with it. Salt Water Chlorinators must be of sufficient capacity to maintain the recommended chlorine residual.

The amount of disinfectant required depends on a number of factors, including, water temperature, the frequency of use and the number of people using the spa. It is most important to always keep the sanitizer level at 2.00 to 3.00 ppm. In very hot water the sanitizer can be used up very quickly, and should be checked regularly whilst the spa is being used.

After heavy use of the spa or on a weekly basis, the water should be shock dosed with chlorine or bromine.

Be sure to check the level again before use. If the spa or hot tub is not being used, add sanitizer every day to prevent contamination.

RECOMMENDED LEVELS:

It is important to note that if the right pH and sanitizer levels are maintained, viruses and bacteria should not survive in the water.

In terms of general hygiene, it is important to keep the filter and pump clean. Clean the filter regularly and empty hair and lint from the pump as often as required.

FOR SAFE AND ENJOYABLE USE
What Shocking Does

Shocking burns out wastes and transforms the chloramines to free available chlorine. Shocking uses oxidation to restore the pool water to a sparkling, sanitary and comfortable condition. Normal chlorine levels are unable to accomplish this.

Why is Shocking Necessary

Wastes enter the pool through wind, rain and people. Many of these wastes are not filterable and combine with the chlorine to form "chloramines, a chlorine nitrogen complex. Chloramines cause eye irritation and reduce the amount of "free" chlorine available to provide sanitation. A build-up of wastes (in the form of chloramines) also causes the water to become cloudy or have a dull appearance.

How & When to Shock

Shocking should be done every 7-10 days. Heavy pool use and warm water temperatures will further increase the need to shock. The addition of 1# of a concentrated shocking agent for each 10,000 gallons of pool water is usually sufficient. The most effective shocking compounds are as follows:

What to Charge:

To keep costs in line, it is important to have consistently in pricing control. Prime Cost Method - The formula is to add the cost of labor and cost of your products and services, add a percentage for profit. Competitive Pricing - Competitive pricing seeks to match what others charge for the same product or service. Conduct a market study and compare the prices to similar ones that you intend to offer in your business. That means pricing your product or service neither very far above nor below what others charge.

 

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